GR11 Etapa 1: Jaizkibel – Erlaitz

[English below]

Data: 1 Juliol 2019
Distància/desnivell: 28.3 km / (+870),(-847)
Temps en moviment: 8h 08'

Òbric els ulls i escolte la pluja que continua caiguent sense donar-nos treva. S'ha passat tota la nit plovent. Desdejune ràpidament sense eixir de la tenda. Desmunte i guarde la tenda mullada dins d'una bossa de plàstic per no comprometre la resta de material o el menjar. Comencem a caminar de pujada entre una boira densa. Unes ovelles al mig de la senda sorprenen Tuca. Els lladra mentre elles abandonen la senda sense massa urgència. En arribar dalt, em done compte que allà hi havia millors zones per acampar. Està tot més pla i sense vegetació. No em recree massa al cim, no fa dia i estic desitjant arribar al far del cap d'Higuer, on comença oficialment la senda pirenaica GR11. Baixem per una pista forestal entre pins a la vora del mar fins a arribar al far. Veig el càmping; encara no és la una del migdia, parem ací ja? La següent zona on podré plantar la tenda està a més de 15 km i el pes de la motxilla està passant-me factura. Ho medite ràpidament i seguim caminant. Potser hauré d'enviar per Correus a casa material prescindible per reduir pes, o no faré molt llarga l'aventura.

Al cap d'Higuer no trobem cap senyal definida que marque un punt d'inici oficial del GR11. Al poc comence a veure les marques de pintura blanques i rojes que seguirem la resta de travessia. Avancem per una senda que voreja el cap i ens ofereix bones vistes a les cales de baix. A l’entrada d’Hondarribia estem ja a nivell del mar. Inicialment havia previst un bany simbòlic al Cantàbric per encetar la ruta, però no fa dia per mullar-se més i no em trobe amb forces per clavar-me al mar. Correus estava obert, però he decidit esperar-me per veure si m'acostume al pes i puc conservar la càmera amb mi. Hem parat a un banc per dinar i descansar un poc. No em fa goig caminar per carretera o ciutat, però hui serà inevitable. Creuem Hondarribia, fem un tram de carretera al costat de l'aeroport i en dos hores estem eixint ja d'Irún per una pista forestal.

Faig una parada a una bassa per recollir aigua i em trobe amb una desena de tritons palmats (Lissotriton helveticus). La pujada al coll d'Erlaitz és costeruda. Els genolls i l'esquena es queixen del pes de la motxilla que es clava a la cintura i les clavícules sense pietat. Tuca no va millor que jo i de pujada ha sofrit un atac curt. Té un problema probablement neurològic i en situacions d'estrés i cansanci extrem, se li bloqueja la mandibula i el coll. Incapaç de controlar-ho, de vegades es mossega la llengua i crida asustada amb dolor. Ja feia uns cinc mesos que no en tenia cap i espere que no vaja a més, o hauré de plantejar-me tornar-la a casa.

Rodejats de vaques i cavalls pastant, per fi apleguem al coll d'Erlaitz on ens hem marcat el final d'etapa. Ens apartem de la senda per no ser vistos i al poc, trobem un terreny suficientment plà i lliure d'arbustos per muntar la tenda. Com que de camí he recollit aigua sense tractar; gaste per primera vegada el filtre per eliminar els possibles bacteris i protozous i així poder beure sense por d'anar de caguetes. Una llavadeta ràpida amb aigua i sabó casolà fent ús de draps de microfibra; sessió de cures per als dos; contacte amb els de casa amb escassa cobertura i em pose a preparar el sopar. Ens ha quedat poca aigua després d'escurar, beure els dos i rentar-me les dents; caldrà aprendre a optimitzar millor el seu ús. Estem rendits, Tuca porta ja una hora enroscada bufant a un racó dins de la tenda mentre jo escrivia. No li ha costat massa reconéixer la tenda com la seua nova zona de confort. Em pregunte si, de tindre opció, ella haguera triat vindre amb mi. Ens esperen dies durs per davant. A dormir ja, que falta ens fa.

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[English]
Date: 01 July 2019

Distance/elevation: 28.3 km / (+870),(-847)

Time in motion: 8h 08'

When opening my eyes I can hear the rain that continues hitting the tent without giving us a break. It has been raining the whole night. I quickly eat my breakfast inside the tent. I disassemble the tent and store it inside a plastic bag so as not to compromise the rest of my material or the food. We start walking uphill surrounded by a dense fog. Some sheep in the middle of the path surprise Tuca. She barks at them while they leave the path without too much urgency. Upon arriving at the top, I realise that actually, there were better campsites here. It's all flatter and without vegetation. We do not spend too much time on the summit, it is not a good idea and since I am looking forward to reaching the lighthouse in Higuer’s cape, where the GR11 (the traverse of the Spanish Pyrenees) officially begins. We go down through a forest track between pine trees along the coast line to reach the lighthouse. I see the campsite; it's around noon, should we stop here now? The next area where I can erect the tent is more than 15 km away and the backpack’s weight is taking its toll on. After a quick meditation, we keep walking. Maybe I will have to send home dispensable material by post to reduce weight, or I will not take this adventure far at all.

At Higuer’s cape do not find any clear sign of an official GR11 starting point; but soon we begin to see the white and red paints on the rocks that we will follow for the rest of our journey. We move along a narrow path that skirts the cape and offers us good views of the coves below. We get to the sea level once arriving at the entrance of Hondarribia. Initially, I had planned a symbolic bath in the Cantabrian Sea to start the route, but the weather is not favourable today and I am not feeling strong enough to stop for this. The post office was open, but I have decided to give it a try and wait to see if I can get used to the weight and then I could keep the camera with me. We stop to sit on a bench to have lunch and rest a bit. I do not enjoy walking on roads or cities, but today that will be inevitable. We cross Hondarribia, we walk a road section next to the airport and in two hours we are already leaving Irún by a forest track.

I have stopped at a pool to collect water and we have found a dozen of palmate newts (Lissotriton helveticus). The climb to the Collado de Erlaitz is steep. My knees and back are complaining about the weight of the backpack that clings to my waist and clavicles without mercy. Tuca is not doing better than me and she has suffered a short seizure. She has a neurological problem and in situations of extreme stress combined with tiredness, her jaw and neck muscles get blocked. Unable to control it, sometimes she bites her tongue and whines scared with pain. There have been five months since her last seizure and I really hope this does not go any further, or I will have to consider returning home.

Surrounded by grazing cows and horses, finally we get to the top of Collado de Erlaitz where I had planned the end of today’s stage. We move away from the path to avoid been seen and after a while we find a sufficiently plain grassy area, free of shrubs to erect the tent. Because on the way I have collected untreated water from the pool; I use the water filter for the first time to eliminate any possible bacteria or protozoa in order to drink without fear catching diarrhea. A quick shower with homemade soap and water using tiny microfiber cloths; a healing session for both of us; I contact the relatives with almost inexistent phone signal and I start preparing the dinner. We have almost run out of water after washing the dishes, drinking both and brushing my teeth; it will be necessary to learn to optimize its use. We are exhausted. Tuca is already inside the tent curled up and snoring in a corner for about an hour while I am writing. She has not found it hard to recognize the tent as its new comfort zone. I wonder, if she had the possibility of choosing, would have she chosen to come with me? Tough days are waiting ahead of us. I go to sleep now, resting will be welcomed.